We had an early start to the day in a cab to the train station in Cork. After a very pleasant train ride through the misty Irish countryside into Dublin, we hopped a cab to our boutique/pub hotel. We took a walk around the town (Sword), and stumbled on the Sword Castle, a gem in the middle of town. The chapel was spectacular, with magnificent wooden ceilings, artistic tile floors and stunning stained glass. Tea and cocoa at a coffee shop and then off to an Indian dinner. Early night for us as we leave for the airport at 6:45 in the morning for a long day of airports and flights. See you soon!

It rained all night and is still raining. At least it’s warmer today so the rain is tolerable. We braved the puddles and went into town to the farm market. Not many stalls because of the rain but absolutely delectable food booths and trucks, bread and artisans. We shopped and then scooted into a warm tea room for tea and cinnamon rolls. Perfect for a rainy afternoon. Then back to the cottage for dry clothes, a warm fire, bowl of popcorn and a movie. Not a day for walking. We’ll be catching an early train tomorrow into Dublin where we’re staying overnight and then heading home Friday. Maybe catch another pub and music tomorrow night before we leave this wonderful country.

Steps down to the town road

Small garden on the way into town

The tide’s in. Kinsale harbor on a dreary day

Pots of heather for sale at a garden shop

Flooded streets

The picture says it all – blustery, constant rain and cold all day. We did get into town for some groceries and a delicious brunch, even with water running down our faces. After my lunch of seasoned avocado on one piece of toasted sourdough and chili beans on another piece, topped with arugula salad and a pot of breakfast tea, we headed back to the cottage for the afternoon. We built a fire and watched a funny movie with a bag of cheese puffs between us. Tonight was homemade broccoli potato soup, a raw salad, Irish beer and gentle Irish music in the background while the wind howls and the rain comes down in buckets.

We started the day by hopping a bus into Cork City, knows for it’s eclectic shopping and culture. Stopped in a Victorian style coffee shop to start the day with a rich, dreamy hot chocolate beside a fire and accompanied by Mozart. We started walking and shopping and spent the next few hours just marveling at the bustle of the city. I was absolutely captivated by street music by a talented musician playing Vivaldi and Polish mazurkas on an electric violin. The fast-moving people swirled around him and us. We lunched at Bocelli, a divine Italian/Mediterranean restaurant where I had seared ahi tuna topped with lime garlic aioli and a rocket salad, accompanied by roasted cherry tomatoes. The delicious entree was followed by my favorite, Iris affogato (vanilla ice cream with hot espresso and Bailey’s Irish cream poured over the top). Dreamy!

On our feet again to walk to the magnificent Fin-Barre cathedral where the organist was practicing, through the beautiful University College Cork and Fitzgerald Park, and then to the not-so-pleasant memories of the Cork City Gaol, the women’s prison from the 1800’s. Beautiful architecture but such a dark time for the city.

Rush for the bus, hour ride back to Kinsale, and a dinner of grilled cheese sandwiches at the cottage. We actually walked 9 miles so were both happy to put our feet up!

Irish affogato

Fin-Barre Cathedral

University College Cork

Fitzgerald Park and the River Lee

A day in Kilbrittain. Took a bus to the village and got off in a deserted sweet little town. Until the church traffic started. But we asked about the lovely walk and were directed up the hill toward a towpath. Just as we started, we were able to see the Kilbrittain castle. It was simply magnificent but privately owned so we weren’t able to go to it. But the path was peaceful, cool, running beside a stream for much of the way. At one point we saw a herd of cows atop a pretty high hill and realized we were headed up that way. So, we climbed and climbed and ended up with amazing views. Not one of our longer walks, but such a delight. We met two of the sweetest donkeys who are evidently the town mascots. We capped off the day with fish and chips at the Spaniard pub, some of the best fish I’ve had in a long time. But then, it is caught right here.

This means Glen of the Little People in Gaelic

Knitted offerings for the little people

The Scilly Walk

Oops! Fell asleep before posting last night. We did an almost seven mile trek along the Scilly Walk (as opposed to Monty Python’s Silly Walks). Okay, maybe we did a few silly walks.

It was a lovely walk on a footpath along the water, going in and out of trees, around a boatyard, and past quiet little coves on one side and hidden private gardens on the other side. The tide was out so there were beautiful rocks, lots of soggy kelp, and then sweet dogs fetching sticks in one of the coves. We stopped at the Bulman pub on the way back for a wee bite since we were feeling a bit peckish, and then happily walked on back for a snacky dinner in the cottage.

Smoked salmon and crab on brown bread. And a stout of course.

So today was an eating sort of day. Okay, we did plenty of walking. To earn our food as it were. We walked the town of Kinsale, a sweet little harbor town with shops and restaurants and lovely little pubs of every ilk. I don’t normally post pictures of food I’m eating in a restaurant, but couldn’t resist this one. A gooey warm brownie with chocolate sauce and bourbon vanilla ice cream. Just the ticket on a blustery Irish day. The fruit in the picture is a tart ground cherry, complete with papery husk.

Then we shopped for Irish wool and linen, postcards and a myriad of Irish gourmet foods for our dinners to come.

Kinsale is well known for its colorful buildings and multicolored doors. On every street there are shops with beautiful architecture accented with bright colors. And a sense of incredible history with old buildings, ancient architecture and cobbled, winding streets.

Sea Garden

St. Multose Anglian church of Ireland

A secret garden

Tomorrow the weather will clear and we’ll be out hiking for the day. And having fish and chips tomorrow night at the Spaniard pub accompanied by live Celtic music.

Today we had a sumptuous Irish continental breakfast at our Dublin hotel, took a taxi to the train station and then had a three-hour train ride to Cork. The Irish, and perhaps all of Europe, know how to do trains. The trip flew by on a fast, clean, smooth train. The countryside was dotted periodically with beautiful old church and building ruins that flashed by with no notoriety, no mention. They were simply a part of the rural landscape, along with so many, many cows and sheep.

We arrived in Kinsale on the southern coast, and were transported up a winding hill on extremely narrow cobble streets to Tara cottage on the harbor. Our host greeted us with fresh scones, butter and jam and a pot of tea. After reconnaissance of supplies in the cottage, we walked into town for a bite to eat at the Spaniard Inn, another old pub. Delicious fresh wild mushroom soup and Irish brown bread along with an Irish stout. I don’t know who the Spaniard is but he’s certainly serious looking. I need to do a little research.

Then a trip to the market. Or rather markets. Each one had some things, none had all things we needed. But the shopkeepers were a delight, and quite willing to make suggestions on the best Irish goods. We bought fresh Irish butter and cream, free-range eggs, fruits, Irish potatoes of course, and freshly baked brown bread. I must show some restraint or I may exceed the pound limit for the flight home.

The most remarkable parts of our walk were the flowers everywhere, even in October. Window boxes filled with heather, fuchsias growing in the woods, geraniums in pots on a wall. And the climate is mild enough for palms.

Tomorrow, we’ll seek out a cozy cafe for breakfast/lunch, and then explore this lovely little town (we’ve already spotted about ten places we want to revisit.

Normally I write about food. But I’d like you to take a stroll with me as I enjoy the fall in Ireland.
Day 1 – started in Dublin. After a hard slog through sleeplessness and jet lag, we went out into the rainy city searching for good food, a warm place to relax and some local culture. Dublin is mostly like any other city with a myriad of national and international shops. But nestled in between the Burger King and Dunnes department stores are tidy, old buildings with beautiful facades that house small eateries, pubs and local art. Here’s where we had lunch:

Stag’s Head pub

Established in the 1770s, this pub has “been great pints, great food, great craic”. This is probably Dublin’s best preserved Victorian pub – and everything here is authentic – carved Victorian mahogany fittings, mosaic marble tiled floors and a mahogany bar, capped with red Connemara marble.

And, we capped off the day with local pizza and a quick pass by the Dublin castle. Now back to the hotel and lots of sleep.