The Potato Pancake 

Some foods try very hard to impress you, and then there are potato pancakes. Potato pancakes do not care if you are impressed. They care only that you are warm, slightly happier than you were five minutes ago, and maybe sitting down for a minute. There’s something so cozy and wholesome – they’re crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside and a wonderful palette awaiting a dollop of sour cream or applesauce. Comfort doesn’t have to be complicated. It can be grated, pan-fried, and eaten standing at the counter while someone else asks, “Are those ready yet?”

Potato pancakes do not ask you to julienne anything. They do not require garnishes or fancy ingredients. They simply say, “Grate some potatoes. I’ll take it from here.” The best part is that you can use your imagination and creativity to combine all sorts of vegetables and seasonings. Basically, use up whatever is in the crisper. 

Even if the rest of the day has been a little questionable, eating a potato pancake is an exercise in mindfulness, whether you intend it or not. They are best fresh and hot, but still excellent cold, which feels like a metaphor for resilience. In uncertain times, when big answers are hard to come by, it is good to remember that some problems can be solved with potatoes, oil, and a hot pan. Not all of them. But enough to make things feel manageable. And really, sometimes that’s all we’re asking of dinner.

2 c. any combination of mashed or grated sweet and white potatoes 

½ small onion, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 egg

½ c. flour

Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté onion and garlic in a small amount of olive oil. Mix all ingredients in a large bowl and drop by large spoonfuls into a pan glazed with olive oil. Pat the cakes flat. Sauté until browned; flip and brown on the other side. Alternatively, you can place on parchment or a silpat on a cookie sheet and bake for about 15-20 minutes in a 350-degree oven. Repeat with the rest of the batter.

Serve warm on their own with a dollop of plain yogurt or sour cream, and a dollop of applesauce, currant jelly, or whatever other jelly you have on hand. Or serve cold over a fresh salad dressed with vinaigrette and sprinkle with goat cheese or feta.

Extras:

1 cup of any combination of grated raw beets, carrots, zucchini, and/or finely chopped greens

1 cup cooked grains (quinoa, bulgur, oatmeal), and/or mashed cooked beans (black, garbanzo, lentils). Just remember that the drier the mix, the more binder you may need, such as an additional egg.

Pestos!

Pesto over hot pasta couldn’t be a simpler, more healthy meal (or over rice or on a baked potato). Traditional Italian pesto is made of basil, pine nuts, olive oil, garlic and parmesan. It’s delicious, but at the risk of offending my Italian cook-friends, I’m going to give you some riffs on traditional pesto, to make use of whatever is harvestable. 

Pestos are infinitely adaptable

Pestos can be adapted to just about any flavor you like, and will give you a good shot of serious vitamins when added to soups, stews or pastas. I’ve also heard the term “green smash” used for a pesto-like sauce made with herbs which is a beautifully imaginative way to present it.

Greens make great pesto

Greens such as kale, beets, Swiss chard or Asian mizuna, are prolific producers, so you will almost always have more greens than you can eat in summer. One of the easiest ways to preserve them for winter eating is in pesto. 

Chard pesto ingredients

Simply wash and stem the greens, and toss in the food processor with a couple of cloves of garlic, some olive oil, a handful of roasted nuts (pine, almond, walnut, pecan, pistachio), fresh basil or other herb of your choice, salt and pepper. Punch up your pesto with roasted peppers, sun dried or fresh tomatoes, roasted winter squash or roasted carrots.

Prepare for the freezer

Puree the mixture and put in a plastic freezer bag. Squeeze out all the air and flatten the bag to freeze. This way, you can simply break off chunks to use without having the thaw the entire bag. Alternatively, you can freeze in ice cube trays or single portion bags. Don’t add cheese until you plan to use the pesto – it doesn’t freeze well. 

Toss with pasta, rice, potatoes

For a quick lunch or dinner, thaw the pesto and toss with pasta or rice and add a generous helping of high-quality grated parmesan, romano or asiago cheese. You can embellish with chopped tomatoes, fresh slivers of red onion or anything else that catches your eye. Add silken tofu or plain Greek yogurt to any pesto when serving for added nutrition.

I’ve listed a classic pesto recipe below but check out the recipe page for chard, red pepper and garlic scape pesto recipes.

Classic Pesto

3 cloves garlic

2 c. fresh basil leaves

¼ c. nuts

1 ½ t. salt

¼ t. pepper

½ cup olive oil

3 oz. Parmesan

Combine all ingredients except oil and cheese in blender or processor. Add half the oil. Process while adding other half the oil. Stir in cheese as you serve.